This statement can really be interpreted two ways – angry and nonchalant. During my first week in the South I experienced both.
Currently it’s Ramadan, a Muslim holiday that last one month. Observers do not eat while the sun is up. Many will wake up at 4 am for breakfast then go back to sleep. Dinner is usually served around 7:30pm. In honor of Muhammad, the fast is typically broken with a small cup of water and dates. I think these were his vittles during a long stay in the desert.....
Anyhoo - I really am trying to be sensitive to those fasting all day around me. I drink water when no one is looking and take my lunch away from the office. Kyrgyzstan has it's own versions of fast food but No one eats or drinks on the go like we do in America. To go cups don’t exist. Neither do doggie bags or drive-thrus. On Tuesday I actually drank my coffee in a thermos on the way to work! That’s so American, right? [A small shout out to the New Yorkers. My travel mug is from the Strand. 18 miles of books!] Sometimes it’s impossible for me not to eat in public. Take for example, the samsa. Samsas are flakey square hot pockets of deliciousness sold by street vendors. Usually they are filled with meat and onions or potatoes and currently with pumpkin! Being the true American that I am, I eat my samsa on the run between work and home and shopping. I just don't know where to go to eat my lunch right now since everyone is fasting. There are few to zero benches and I'm definitely not sitting on the steps of a building. Its way too dirty here for that.
On the other hand, just because I’m an American don’t assume you can overcharge me. Yesterday morning I went to an IP telephone shop to call Papa OJ (my grandpa) and wish him a happy birthday. He’s 88 years young! We had a great conversation. It was amazing to hear his voice and I know he appreciated hearing mine! My host brother told me the charge was 5 soms per minute. That seemed a fair price since Bishkek and Kant charged a som or two less. I finished with my call and the attendant said it was 12 soms per minute! I couldn’t believe it! I was frustrated because I knew exactly what she doing. I was prepared to pay the exorbitant fee but insisted she give me a receipt spelling out exactly how much she charged me. She changed her tune pretty quickly. The price was immediately cut in half. I was still overcharged by a som per minute. I would have argued it further but I had to go to work. Did I mention I did this all in Russian?? Go me!! This is the second time someone has tried to charge me twice as much for goods. Over the weekend I found the most adorable Italian coat at a second hand shop. The lady tried to charge me 400 soms for it! I looked at her and was like, “It’s not new.” Again, the price was cut in half. I didn’t buy the coat. All trust was lost. Seriously. Shopping in Kyrgyzstan is like shopping for a car all the time. People are nice here but do your homework before you go!
Other than that, life in the south is grand. Aaron will be here in a few days and I already have lots of adventures in mind - Mount Sulieman, a day hike to see petroglyphs and a waterfall, museums, the park, a trip to see my language teacher, hopefully a weekend in Bishkek and of course lots of eating. There are at least three traditional dishes in Kyrgyztan - Plov (rice), Lagman (soup with noodles) and Mahnti (dumplings). And of course, lots of tea. He'll even be coming with me to work! He's agreed to teach a brief tutorial on web design as well as spend some time at the center for children. We'll play some American games and make them an American lunch like Peanut Butter and Jelly.
Currently it’s Ramadan, a Muslim holiday that last one month. Observers do not eat while the sun is up. Many will wake up at 4 am for breakfast then go back to sleep. Dinner is usually served around 7:30pm. In honor of Muhammad, the fast is typically broken with a small cup of water and dates. I think these were his vittles during a long stay in the desert.....
Anyhoo - I really am trying to be sensitive to those fasting all day around me. I drink water when no one is looking and take my lunch away from the office. Kyrgyzstan has it's own versions of fast food but No one eats or drinks on the go like we do in America. To go cups don’t exist. Neither do doggie bags or drive-thrus. On Tuesday I actually drank my coffee in a thermos on the way to work! That’s so American, right? [A small shout out to the New Yorkers. My travel mug is from the Strand. 18 miles of books!] Sometimes it’s impossible for me not to eat in public. Take for example, the samsa. Samsas are flakey square hot pockets of deliciousness sold by street vendors. Usually they are filled with meat and onions or potatoes and currently with pumpkin! Being the true American that I am, I eat my samsa on the run between work and home and shopping. I just don't know where to go to eat my lunch right now since everyone is fasting. There are few to zero benches and I'm definitely not sitting on the steps of a building. Its way too dirty here for that.
On the other hand, just because I’m an American don’t assume you can overcharge me. Yesterday morning I went to an IP telephone shop to call Papa OJ (my grandpa) and wish him a happy birthday. He’s 88 years young! We had a great conversation. It was amazing to hear his voice and I know he appreciated hearing mine! My host brother told me the charge was 5 soms per minute. That seemed a fair price since Bishkek and Kant charged a som or two less. I finished with my call and the attendant said it was 12 soms per minute! I couldn’t believe it! I was frustrated because I knew exactly what she doing. I was prepared to pay the exorbitant fee but insisted she give me a receipt spelling out exactly how much she charged me. She changed her tune pretty quickly. The price was immediately cut in half. I was still overcharged by a som per minute. I would have argued it further but I had to go to work. Did I mention I did this all in Russian?? Go me!! This is the second time someone has tried to charge me twice as much for goods. Over the weekend I found the most adorable Italian coat at a second hand shop. The lady tried to charge me 400 soms for it! I looked at her and was like, “It’s not new.” Again, the price was cut in half. I didn’t buy the coat. All trust was lost. Seriously. Shopping in Kyrgyzstan is like shopping for a car all the time. People are nice here but do your homework before you go!
Other than that, life in the south is grand. Aaron will be here in a few days and I already have lots of adventures in mind - Mount Sulieman, a day hike to see petroglyphs and a waterfall, museums, the park, a trip to see my language teacher, hopefully a weekend in Bishkek and of course lots of eating. There are at least three traditional dishes in Kyrgyztan - Plov (rice), Lagman (soup with noodles) and Mahnti (dumplings). And of course, lots of tea. He'll even be coming with me to work! He's agreed to teach a brief tutorial on web design as well as spend some time at the center for children. We'll play some American games and make them an American lunch like Peanut Butter and Jelly.
And that picture totally unrelated to the blog? That was my last day of language class. I also posted more pictures on my flickr page! Hope you have time to check them out!
5 comments:
Kelly, it sounds like you have definitely adjusted to your life in the Kyrgyz. I love reading about your daily encounters. Life in the south does sound grand. Perhaps, you should consider being a travel agent. The itinerary you planned for the next few days is magnificent. It’s wonderful that you and Aaron have included a visit to the center for children. What child wouldn’t enjoy games and PB&J sandwiches?
Love and miss you, Mom
Kelly,
So good to hear that you are doing well! I have to relog in every time I write on this and change my password..I don't know why, but so does Susan...I can't ever do this in an appropriate and timely manner...
you are a very good writer and have such a way to express yourself and just think of all the experiences you are having and will able to share all of this with your family...we can't wait for you to come back and "enlighten" us on everything you have learned and experienced!
Love you,
Aunt Pam
Kelly:
Love hearing about all your adventures! I was so glad to see another posting! I can totally see you bargaining with all these people upcharging you....
Off to go and cook dinner for some friends- hope I dont poison them all! Miss you-Stacy
You amaze me more and more all the time. Rock on with the language!!! When you get back, we are having drinks and you are talking Russian! Jessica
My first few trips abroud, I learned something evey time I bargained. One of the first things I learned is that they start high for anyone they think has more money than them. American are no better or worse targets than Danes, French, Russians or any outsider whom they think will spend freely.
Unless you actually speak Kyrghiz or Uighar, you won't get a great price unless you have inside knowledge of what the current market prize is!
However, it is super good that you bargained in Russian! Even if it doesn't produce lower prices, it shows a lot of confidence, which I always knew you have in spades.
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