Tuesday, July 17, 2007

all things good

Day 7 with my host family. All things are great so far! They are really wonderful. Again, for privacy, I’m assuming Peace Corp doesn’t want me outing the family so I tell you this – they are a happy family with 3 great children (a daughter and 2 sons). The daughter and the son speak a little English and that has made my transition much, much easier. I just hope it does not hinder my Russian lessons. There is so much I want to express (gratitude to be living with this family, excitement to be in Kyrgyzstan, hopes for my project, life back home) so the language barrier is a bit frustrating. I’m not shy about learning Russian or making the mistakes, the problem is that my vocabulary is very limited so it’s hard to ask questions and start a conversation. But I know this will come in time. I’ve only been here a week! So here’s a run down of my first few days in Kyrgyzstan.

For a day and a half Peace Corps housed all of the volunteers at hotel. There we had our first introductions to Kyrgyzstani accommodations, weather and food. Our hotel was rustic by American standards but good. We had a running toilet (literally), a tub with a shower attachment but unfortunately no air conditioning or windows with screens. Mid day in Kyrgyzstan is very hot but it cools off by 7pm. My roommate and I slept with our porch door open to keep cool. We were on the 4th floor so I felt safe but I feared a swallow would fly in! The entire hotel was covered in their big muddy nests and our porch housed about 10 birds in 4 little “condos.” My roommate Cheng Li would whistle at them in the morning. From our porch you could also see the mountains and a park in tribute to Manas, the great epic hero of Krygyzstan. And yes, the mountains are very beautiful. All of our meals were taken at the hotel and for the most part, everything was delicious. Though it was odd to have spaghetti with meat sauce for breakfast.

At the hotel we learned a little bit about Kyrgyzstani culture as well as how to keep ourselves and our belongings safe and secure in the country. We also started our language lessons and vaccinations. Russian is not easy! In the evenings most volunteers gathered at a Tiki bar on the hotel property. We had our first introduction to Kyrgyzstani beer which, while not cold, was delicious! On the day we met our host family we hopped a Marushka to Bishkek (the capital) to buy presents for our host families. Marshrukas redefine “clown car.” Imagine a Volkswagon van with about 30 people crammed inside plus their children and packages. And its 90+ degrees outside. And its humid. And there is no A/C, only windows. And your lucky if you get a window!! No bueno. (side note: I find myself reverting to Spanish all the time. I don’t even really speak Spanish. Other volunteers are doing this as well………). This is the preferred method of travel by Peace Corps. I’m not really sure why…….it’s probably cheapest.

In Bishkek we visited the internet cafĂ© as well as the grocery store and florist to buy presents for our host families. We all bought these ridiculous bouquets for our 2nd families. I don’t know how they weren’t crushed on the way home.

Last Wednesday all volunteers relocated to their new homes. Peace Corps hosted a very sweet matching ceremony where the families and volunteers met on a stage and swapped bouquets, hugs and kisses. Unfortunately the language barrier kept the conversation short but there was definitely happiness on my part as well as my host family. I was told I look just like my host mom, a wonderful complement. After refreshments we went outside to find the car and collect my 125 pounds of gear. My host sister explained that her cousin was to take us home. The only problem… he was no where to be found. Five phone calls later the cousin finally arrived with much panache. Driving a slightly beat up Audi, he jumped the driveway into a small pot hole and bounced to a stop. He jumped out to my host sister and mother yelling and me just standing there with my 125 pounds of clothes, toiletries and electronics. I was pretty embarrassed by the weight so I had prepared an apology - Mai sumkee tejouleeah. Eevee nitzya (My bags are very heavy. I’m sorry.). The cousin just smiled and gave me the universal sign for “I’m strong.” So this was my introduction to my family! They argue, laugh, arrive late, and are fairly disorganized. I actually found their disorganization the most comforting. It was very humanizing and left all formality at the matching ceremony.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Meeting our host family and .04%

Today I will meet my host family. Per the Peace Corps, for safety reasons, I will not be able to share where they are located on my blog. I am very excited to meet them and I’ve heard they are very excited to meet us. We’ve started to learn a few cultural norms (take shoes off when you enter the house, most homes have summer showers located outside, many families eat on the floor and you best be careful not to put your feet on the tablecloth!). I’ve also started my Russian lessons. I will be learning that language instead of Kyrgyz.

On July 8th we arrived in Kyrgyzstan. Angela calculated that from the time we left the hotel in New Jersey to the moment we arrived at our hotel, we had been traveling for 36 hours straight. It was uneventful, which in this case, is not a bad thing.

But it was an emotional day.

On the flight from Turkey to Kyrgyzstan I sat next to a Host Country National (HCN) whose name unfortunately I’ve forgotten. He had already made friends with a few other volunteers and we immediately struck up a conversation when he took his seat. His English was basic but we were still able to discuss his children, trade vocabulary, why I was not married and eventually my religion. I told him I was Jewish.

He didn’t recognize the religion so he asked “Catholic?”
I replied “No, Jewish.”
“Protestant?”
“No, we came before the Christians. Do you know Israel?”
“Evangelical? Baptist?”
Once again I said “no” then asked his religion. He replied Muslim. So I drew the symbol of each of our religions – Star of David, the cross and a crescent moon – and that registered. The conversation soon tailed off and he took an interest in the couple sitting opposite from him.

A few minutes later HCN says very excitedly. “You know high holy day? People go to Tel Aviv for symposium. You contact 2 weeks after.”

What?!?! What people? What symposium? In Tel Aviv? In Kyrgyzstan? I told him I didn’t understand so he turns away again and speaks rapidly in Russian to the couple again and HCN hands me a business card.

I don’t know if it was my travel weariness, fear of isolation, leaving home or just lack of sleep but the moment I saw the menorah in the top left corner of the card the tears came up and wouldn’t stop. My reaction took me completely by surprise. I was crying so hard I couldn’t speak. Even now I’m getting misty. Poor HCN was so confused. Once I calmed down I explained what a wonderful thing he had done, that my tears were tears of joy and I was extremely thankful. I don’t know if he quite got it.

There are 5 million people in Kyrgyzstan. I’ve read only 2000 identify as Jews. That’s .04%. And this wonderful man introduced me 2 of the 2000. The couple I met work for the Jewish Culture Society of Kyrgyzstan. They invited me to visit their community and while they will not be in town for the High Holy Days we’ve already discussed Pesach. While I’m writing this I have not had a chance to visit their website but here it is http://www.hesed.kg. They also said if I need anything, to call.

What angels. What a small world.

I told Peace Corps staff about my new acquaintances and my hopes of connecting with the Jewish community. They are very supportive and glad that I made the contact.

Sunday, July 8, 2007

Turkish Delights

I awoke this morning at 6:15am to watch the sun rise over Cherry Hill, NJ. Now I am sitting in the smokey airport dining mall in Istanbul. It's about 1:30pm local time. My computer still thinks its in the central time zone. It's 4:50am in Texas.

so the hightlights. this morning I made a delicious cup of bathroom coffee then I managed to manuever 125 lbs of gear through the hotel, the bus, off the bus and to JFK airport. No easy feat. Let's just say I am so so thankful for my personal trainer and workout crew (this a a shout out to Drea, Emily, Stephanie and Pam! Those bunny hops really helped!) and for my shoes. My mom made me buy Merrell hiking/running shoes for this trip. They remind me of a pillowtop bed. Soft and cushy but firm. I wanted to wear my Crocs (to easily slip on and off) but as always, mom was right. Thanks Mom!!!

On the flight over I was stuck in an middle seat (yuck) but I was between two great people. Liz (fellow PC volunteer) and Darius, an asipiring film maker and BMW salesperson from Maui. I did manage to sleep a bit and practice my Kyrgyz.

Now that I'm in Instanbul I haven't left all of America. There's a Burger King and Gloria Jean's Coffee. But I'm hoping to check out the coffee and dessert bar called Delights.

Next stop Kyrgyzstan!

Monday, July 2, 2007

A few days to go and Snake Breakfast!

In a few days I will be Cherry Hill NJ (across the Delaware River from Philly) meeting all of my fellow PC volunteers. It’s still a little unbelievable. Just a little over a week ago I was in Los Angeles!

Since coming home to San Antonio I’ve been visiting with family, friends and shopping! Getting ready for the Peace Corps is like preparing for college or summer camp. Lots of lists, limited space. I still need a few items, like winter hiking boots but I may wait to buy those in country. Mostly I’m just trying to organize and store away all my stuff while I’m away for 2 years.

I did have a very exciting moment during breakfast on Monday….

I was enjoying a bowl of oatmeal and fresh blueberries when I heard a noise outside on the patio. A few branches had fallen to the ground. Not thinking much of it I went back to my oatmeal. A few moments later a much louder crash greeted my breakfast. I looked outside and on my parents’ patio was a large Texas Rat snake bouncing and writhing on the ground like a loose tire tube kicking and twisting in the wind. The snake quickly rebounded and wrapped around its own breakfast, a small bird. Camera in hand, and safely on the other side of a double paned window, I got ready to watch my own live version of Animal Kingdom.

Alas I am slightly clumsy.

As I was sitting down on the floor my camera tapped the window. I don’t know if the rat snake saw me but it did look straight at me and flick his tongue. He slithered into the brush soon afterwards leaving his leftovers in the middle of the patio. I couldn’t wait for my mom to come home and see the present the snake had left. Lucky for her, the snake came back.

About 30 minutes later, when I wasn’t looking, the snake gobbled his breakfast. I caught a couple of shots as he was returning to his home in the bushes to digest.

Perhaps I can add novice National Geographic photographer to my list of hobbies? Enjoy the photos.