Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Happy Halloween!




For about a week now Peace Corps volunteers have been bringing Halloween to Osh!

Last Thursday Sarah and I made Jack O’ Lanterns at my NGO. We let the kids scoop out the seeds and membranes of the pumpkins. See the action shot to the left? I think they thought it was fun. They named the pumpkins “Arnold Schwarzenegger and Jennifer Lopez.” The certainly enjoyed the pumpkin (tikvah in Russian) they were eating it raw! The pumpkin here is sweeter and softer so it probably wasn’t too bad for them…. On Saturday Theo’s NGO sponsored a pumpkin carving contest. Volunteers brought their coworkers and family members. Together we carved over 10 pumpkins then voted on a winner. The pumpkins were very impressive and as soon as I get copies of the photos I’ll post them. Meg and I toasted the pumpkin seeds (the best part of making Jack O’ Lanterns) and check it out - in Kyrgyzstan people only eat the INSIDE of pumpkin seeds, not the outside too! To them, it’s like eating sunflower seeds.... Later that evening 30 volunteers between here and Jalal Abad dressed up and danced the night away at a local club’s annual Halloween party. The club is owned by a woman who spent time in America and it is one of THE events in the south. The staff was dressed up as well as some locals. Becky, Erika and I were the “3 Blind Mice.” Still waiting on those pictures too! At the club they served blood red beer and pumpkin pizza! Both were weird. I partook very little..... Yesterday I went to the center to make masks with the children and finally today we going to “Trick or Treat” around the center. I’ve recruited 5 other volunteers to help so it should be fun....... Tonight I’ll pick up one more pumpkin and carve it with my host family.

I’ve never celebrated so much Halloween! But this part of being a Peace Corps volunteer, right? Sharing American culture.

Thursday, October 18, 2007

Who you are

I came to a big decision today. I’m going to start teaching English to my colleagues. I was avoiding this because I don’t want to be pigeon holed as an English teacher but when I asked Elmira (my director) “What day would work best for you?” she lit up like a Christmas tree and said "Everyday!" How can I refuse that? It's also a very sustainable use of me. If they can speak and read English they may have more opportunity to international funding. So the next question is, how often?

What I may do is teach English half of the week then play with the kids at the center on the other half. That's where the real inspiration.

The children at the center are homeless either because the families can't afford them or the children left on their own. Maybe they have been sent out by their parents to sell apples or carrots or beg. The police raid bazaars and empty buildings looking for these children. My organization offers safe refuge while the police search for their parents. We clean and feed them. We play games. We offer a bed. They are visited by a doctor to check for illnesses and by a social worker to see if any other harm has been done. If after 10 days the parents are not found the children are sent to orphanages.

Many children do not have birth certificates which will make it impossible to obtain passports. Passports are the legal document used by Kyrgyzstan to own a business, drive a car, purchase a home etc. Unfortunately, passports are also a form of racism. Passports in Kyrgyzstan document nationality, ethnicity and patronymics. For example, my host family is Uzbek. Their passport will say Nationality: Kyrgyzstan, Ethnicity: Uzbek, Patronymic: Father’s Name. Perhaps it’s part of a Soviet hangover. Perhaps it's an old European model. I don't know.

Saying I’m an American isn’t enough. My host father during training wanted to know where my father’s and mother’s parents were from. At the time I didn’t realize how significant and dangerous this question could be. I am of mixed heritage and it’s interesting to trace my historical roots to unknown villages in Europe. Here, it defines who I am. Once a week my host dad would say “Hungary,” the homeland of my father’s mother. As if that really means anything.

I’m sending along a very interesting article to about an obscure group called the Lyuli, a marginalized community in Kyrgyzstan. It highlights a little of what I talked about above. http://www.eurasianet.org/departments/insight/articles/eav101507.shtml

Ethnic differences could also prevent the democratic process from thriving. My city recently held elections for the office of Deputy. As it was explained to me (in broken English and Russian), a judge over ruled the democratic election of one Deputy because he is Uzbek not Kyrgyz. I've been told it is because in the south, the Kyrgyz don't want too many Uzbeks in power. This person is taking his case to a higher court and hopefully democracy will prevail. Kyrgyzstan has only been a democracy for 15 years. They are in the middle of the teenage growing pains. I explained to my counterpart the United States is still trying to get it right as well and we are 231 years old!

The corruption is so blatant but it comes out of necessity. The wages here are so low. It is a vicious cycle.

What will it take to for this country to change? What will it take to inspire? What industry will help this country lift itself out of poverty? This is a question asked by many leaders and many organizations.

I tried to explain the concept of "return on social investment" to my director and counterpart. How an investment by community members in to our children's center and organization is an investment in a better Kyrgyzstan. How do we inspire the businessmen and mothers to make change the same way Carnegie or quilting groups did in America 100 years ago or the way Gates is making changes around the world? In a society so focused on social networks and family units, how can that sentiment be expanded? This is cultural bridge I’m trying to cross. I’m hoping it might be away to fundraise for our organization as well.

Ideas on how to fundraise in the developing world - something beyond international grants and small business enterprises is welcomed!

Hope all is well wherever you are-

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Arslambob


Aaron and I spent a wonderful weekend in Arslambob, a small village 3.5 hours north of Osh. More on this later but here is a picture of us and the mountains.